Luke Leitch reviews Etro Spring Summer 2017 for Vogue Magazine
“A dog on the runway will always win points in this critic’s notebook. Yet Canita, the companion of Igor Ramírez García-Peralta, founder of Solar magazine, was an especially excellent canine addition to the Etro runway today; wiry of hair, noble of haunch, perky of expression, and moist of nose. His owner and the majority of the men at this show were nonprofessional models recruited by Kean Etro to show off this typically warm and beguiling Etro collection. That’s been done before, sure, but the interesting thing here was that Kean gave his recruits carte blanche to choose their own pieces to wear, rather than being styled into them.”
Read More at Vogue online
Anoraks are back – Brioni & Get some greens – Canali
What were the big style takeaways from the catwalks in London, Milan and Paris last June? Here we break down the 11 big menswear trends you need to know for spring/summer ’16…
Get Your Greens
Green has been around for a few seasons now, but this season it’s booming. While we’ve previously seen green as a head-to-toe outfit in the same shade, for S/S ’16 we’ll see the shades split up and mixed together. Beginners should clash hues using accessories (such as ties or bags), but for next level menswear points commit with a few contrasting pieces that you can wear together.
Anoraks Are Back
The humble pac-a-mac is going high-end. When an inevitable, impromptu rain shower hits, make sure you’ve got a light nylon cover-up to hand. While we saw ones in patterns at Brioni and bold, block colours at E Tautz, the most popular style was see-though – which is handy, because it goes with everything you already own.
Read more at GQ magazine online
Statement Coats, Long Hair, Oversized Cardigans and more.
Lee Eiseman talks Fall 2015
Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway. The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted, androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men’s and women’s fashion; it is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette.
Leatrice EisemanExecutive Director, Pantone Color Institute®
This season displays an umbrella of accord that weaves earthy neutrals with a range of bold color statements and patterns to reflect a landscape of hope, fun, fantasy and all things natural. The colors are evocative of a love for nature and a timeless appreciation for warmth and security, which are conveyed through naturally inspired colors that remind us of things that are real and protective.
This Fall, designers’ pay homage to progressive moments in American history – from the seductive ‘20s to the bohemian hippie and modernists of the ‘60s and ‘70s – while stringing together an affection for colors and styling that are innately easy to wear by both men and women.
“Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted, androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men’s and women’s fashion; it is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette.”
Read more about this years palate at the Pantone Color Institute Website.
…leisurely blend of fifties film noir and modern-day Los Angeles.
Style Magazine Lee Carter
June 24, 2014
Nearing its 70th anniversary, the Roman house of Brioni enjoys a history in menswear so distinguished and celebrated that it need only crack open its archives to find fresh nuance. Upon doing so, creative director Brendan Mullane, a Brit who knows his way around bespoke, was thrilled to discover candid footage of Hollywood greats Cary Grant, Henry Fonda, and Richard Burton as they were being fitted in Brioni suits for various roles. Inspiration struck, Mullane said during a live presentation—a heady, leisurely blend of fifties film noir and modern-day Los Angeles.
This was an unabashed collection layered with meaning and saturated with color. The designer said he wanted to reinvent the house’s Columnar look, defined by boxy shapes on top and tapered, slightly cropped trousers below, around which other markers of casually elegant men’s dressing were assembled: varsity-style jackets, polo shirts, Bermuda shorts. Reliable houndstooth plaids, herringbone weaves, and Prince of Wales checks featured prominently.
Now, about those saturated colors, so brazen in their searing tones of fuchsia, electric blue, and acid green, creating intricate, iridescent floral patterns tightly held together on silks and knits like the pieces of a puzzle. Mullane collaborated with L.A.-based artist James Welling, often cited by designers, to achieve the triple-exposure effect. Photographer Collier Schorr, another favorite among fashion circles, created the short films screened at the launch. Evocative of celebrity stalking—as in secretly taping actors through bedroom windows—they set a vaguely forbidden, slightly illicit tone that lent a dose of drama to the romance.
Pantone has released there annual Men’s Fashion report. This year the theme is En Plein Air.
For Spring 2015, the men’s palette takes a surprising turn, deviating from the women’s palette more than we have seen in recent seasons.
The menswear colors emphasize the need for uncontrived hues, where natural tones are interspersed with deep, foundational colors for an unassuming and sophisticated Top 10.
“In a world that has become increasingly chaotic, the nostalgic blues enables us to retreat into a safe place of quiet calm while harmonious greens from nature offer a reassuring presence.”
Leatrice Eiseman Executive Director, Pantone Color Institute®
View the report on Pantone’s website – click here